
In November, Switzerland shifts from autumn to winter. In the valleys the last autumn colours fade, while high up in the mountains the first ski lifts are already running again.
In the Netherlands, November mostly means rain and dark days. In Switzerland you can already hit the slopes this month, the first Christmas markets open and fondue and raclette are back on the table.
Can't wait to get back on your skis or snowboard? In Switzerland you don't have to wait until December. A few high-altitude areas open their first slopes at the end of October or in November. In order of opening:
Engelberg-Titlis, from 29 October. One of the first places to open in Central Switzerland. The glacier slopes open first and the rest of the area follows later; Stand-Trübsee, for example, from 28 November.
Saas-Fee, from 31 October. Thanks to its high glacier, Saas-Fee lets you ski early in the season, and from opening day the glacier area is open every day.
Mürren-Schilthorn, from 31 October at weekends. First up are the weekends of 31 October and 1 November, 7 and 8 November and 14 and 15 November. From 21 November the area is open every day.
Zermatt, from 1 November. Skiing with a view of the Matterhorn. The winter season starts on 1 November, and from 28 November Sunnegga-Rothorn and Gornergrat open as well.
Glacier 3000, from 7 November. A high-altitude area near Les Diablerets, where you can get back on the slopes from early November.
Davos, from 13 November. Parsenn on the Davos side opens with a first ski weekend from 13 to 15 November. From 20 November the lifts run every day. The Klosters side follows later.
Andermatt, around mid-November. Also in Central Switzerland, which makes it an alternative to Engelberg. The exact opening date of the Gemsstock isn't on the ski area's website yet.
Skiing in Switzerland is expensive, so first take a look at Snow'n'Rail from SBB: a train journey and ski pass combined at a discount. For Engelberg-Titlis, for example, you get 20 percent off a 1, 2 or 6-day ski pass and up to 30 percent off the train journey, as long as that month's saver tickets haven't sold out. Book online, check whether the offer applies on your date and compare it with the price at the ski area itself.
Please note: these are planned opening dates. In November especially, often only a few slopes are open and the weather can upset the plans. So always check the current slope status before you set off.
Away from the mountains there is plenty to do in November too. The big summer festivals are over, and in their place come autumn fairs, Swiss traditions and, gradually, the first Christmas markets.
A few good options:
Basler Herbstmesse, until 8 November. The Herbstmesse is the biggest funfair in Switzerland, with a tradition going back more than 550 years. Rides, market stalls and lots of food, spread across seven locations in Basel.
Rudolfs Weihnacht in Lucerne, from 20 November. A Christmas market in Inseli Park on Lake Lucerne, with food, drinks, music and a fondue chalet. Rudolfs Weihnacht runs until 23 December and is a nice place to go with friends after work or at the weekend.
Zibelemärit in Bern, Monday 23 November. A typically Swiss tradition you really should see once. Bern's old town is then full of stalls, braided onions, local products and treats. And yes, the Zibelemärit starts early: officially at 6 am, but the first stalls are already selling from 4 in the morning.
Christmas market in Basel, from 26 November. One of the best-known Christmas markets in Switzerland, on Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz in the historic old town. The Christmas market is open every day until 23 December. Perfect for an evening of mulled wine, good food and a first bit of Christmas spirit.
My tip: do something spontaneous after work now and then. You don't need to keep a whole weekend free for every event. A few hours wandering around a market or eating fondue with friends or people from the takeoff community makes an ordinary working week that bit more fun.
When I think of autumn and winter in Switzerland, I immediately think of food as well. As soon as the temperature drops, the season of cheese fondue and raclette begins: sitting round the table with friends and, above all, lingering.
And then of course there are the marroni: warm roasted chestnuts you can buy at many stations and markets. For me they have become part of November.
Organise a fondue evening with friends or go out for raclette after work. It's an easy way to get to know Swiss food better.
You might as well get your winter coat out of the wardrobe, because in December the winter season really gets going, with toboggan runs and Christmas markets all over the country.
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